We never tire of this stretch of the Kawatiri Coastal Trail. It begins where the Buller River finally exhales into the sea, a quiet place where the tide glides through native reeds and the morning light reflects off calm water. The air here feels different, soft, salt kissed, alive. Setting out from Westport, the trail follows the old river path and soon we are surrounded by the gentle rhythm of wetland birds. Their calls echo across the boardwalks as if welcoming us into their world.

We often suggest guests begin this section mid-morning, once the early mist has lifted but before the afternoon breeze arrives. The first few kilometres are easy and forgiving, perfect for easing into the ride. The track winds through low forest and across small bridges before opening suddenly to the horizon. Ahead lies the long sweep of Carters Beach, a stretch of pale sand so broad and peaceful it always takes us by surprise.

We love to stop here for a moment. The ocean hums, the sky feels endless, and if you turn inland you can still glimpse the distant ranges that guard the Buller Valley. It is one of those rare places where you can sense both mountain and sea in the same breath. There is a café nearby for those who want a coffee or something sweet, but we often bring a small picnic of fruit, homemade cake, and a thermos of tea. Sitting on the dunes watching the waves roll in is as restorative as any spa.

From Carters Beach the trail continues toward Cape Foulwind, and this is where the land begins to reveal its wilder character. The path edges closer to the coastline, the vegetation thickens, and the sound of surf grows louder. On still days the sea appears calm and glassy, yet the name of the cape reminds us that this coast can be fierce. We like to think of the explorers who first named it, struggling against sudden gales while we glide along on our bikes in gentle sunshine.

Halfway along we often pause at Martins Creek where a beautiful suspension bridge crosses the water. From here you can look back toward the river mouth and forward toward the cape. It feels like standing at the hinge of two landscapes, estuary behind, ocean ahead. If we listen carefully we can sometimes hear the distant bark of a seal carried on the wind.

Arriving at Cape Foulwind is always a small triumph. The headland rises ahead, fringed by flax and tussock, and the Tasman Sea stretches away into a silver distance. A short walk takes us to the lookout where the seal colony lives. On warm afternoons the rocks below are dotted with sleek shapes basking in the sun. The scent of the sea is strong, the sound of gulls constant, and the feeling of being on the edge of the world is unforgettable.

Each time we finish this section we linger at the cape a little longer than planned. The light shifts quickly here; late afternoon turns everything golden. It is easy to lose track of time watching the seals, photographing the cliffs, or simply standing quietly together while the wind tugs at our hair.

For us, this first part of the Kawatiri Coastal Trail captures everything we love about the northern West Coast, wild beauty softened by calm moments, easy access that still feels like discovery, and a sense of space that seems to expand with every kilometre. We always return home to the lodge feeling both exhilarated and peaceful, ready to sit on the deck with a glass of wine and watch the same sea we have just followed along its shore.